Value Aquatics

The Hozelock Titan is an excellent pump, ideal for waterfalls and filtration. The Hozelock Titan will pump high volumes of water in continuous use without clogging.
The Titan range will run continuously without clogging and handle solids up 8mm (8mm with the 5500 and 8000 and 4mm with the 2000 and 3000).

The Titan range have large intake slots in the base of the pump which encourage the pump to collect solids from the floor of the pond. All Titans have unidirectional rotation to maximise pumping efficiency, with open impellors to provide the solids handling capability. The Titan 2000 and 3000 use the same motors as the mid range Cascades providing unparalleled performance with low running costs. The larger Titans use heavy asynchronous motors, these use stainless steel rotor sleeving to increases magnetic coupling for maximum performance.

Titans also feature a Wildlife Protection System WPS, there is a lever on the side of the pump which can be used to adjust the size of the intake slots, these can be adjusted down to 2mm, to prevent young fish or wildlife getting sucked into the impellor.

The outlet (20-40mm) of all Titans feature a ball joint which allows the hose to be positioned more freely, other features include tool free access, and extra secure locking catches to keep the cage held firmly together. All Hozelock Titan pumps are guaranteed for 3 years.

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The New improved Hozelock Bioforce, is a highly effective pond filter, with an easy clean capability, they come in 4 new sizes the 3000, 5500, 8000 and 12000 litres.

The Hozelock Bioforce is a pressurised system, which can be partially buried at the edge of the pond and used to run a waterfall. The New Hozelock Bioforce features are as follows:

Mechanical Filtration

More efficient and less cleaning- “through-flow course foams reduce filter cleaning, the foams are profiled creating a larger surface area for efficient removal of waste, layered foams make thorough cleaning easier.

Biological Filtration
Increased biological activity- the addition of “Kaldnes K3” bio media exclusive to Hozelock, scientifically proven and in widespread use in industrial water purification processes, results in vastly superior biological capacity compared to other biomedia used in pond filtration. When using the new “backflush” facility the water flow through the Kaldnes K3 media removes loose debris and old less active bacteria stimulating bacterial activity as a result.

UVC Filtration
UC Efficiency- The Hozelock maximum efficiency quartz sleeves allow 87% UV efficiency for treating algae compared with 30% and 50% for glass and plastic respectively. High-efficiency single ended UV lamps and a built in water turbulator ensures maximum water treatment and elimination of green water. The UV lamp has a bayonet type fitting allowing for quick lamp changing and cleaning as required. The Hozelock Bioforce is now equipped with a specially designed indicator so that the user can safely see if the UV lamp is operational and functioning.

Easy Cleaning
the Hozelock Bioforce range now has an easy clean “backflush” facility for flushing debris out of the filter thereby extending the time between thorough foam cleaning. This is also aided by the use of the new “flow through” coarse foams, which efficiently remove waste particles whilst also reducing cleaning frequency.

The well established strengths of the Hozelock Bioforce are still prominent in the new version. The fact that it is a compact pressurised system means it is ideal for pond keepers who want ease of use, clear water and a filter system hidden from view. The Hozelock bioforce is a pressurised system which means it is compact, with a less obtrusive container size which can be partially buried to hide it from view, the fact that it is pressurised also means that the filtered water can travel up to the top of a waterfall, without the need to place the filter at a high level.

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Hozelock’s new Pond Vac has just been introduced (April 2008), and claims that the new pond vac will save upto 30% of time when cleaning a pond compared to other pond vacuums, by giving up to 50% more suction.

The Hozelock Pond Vac is different to other vacuums in that it has a specially designed pump which is submersed in the pond during use and runs continuously, most other pond vacuums have the pump situated outside the pond and can only be operated for about a minute before the collection chamber is filled and the unit requires emptying, before the pond vacuum can be started up again.

The Hozelock Pond Vacuum can deliver up to 50% more suction pressure than comparable systems plus the power consumption of the unit is much lower, Hozelock claim the unit is up to seven times more efficient delivering significantly reduced running costs. The compact and portable design mean the unit is very easy to use transport and store away after use.

The Hozelock Pond vacuum offers a choice of two suction nozzles, which fasted directly to the inlet of the head assembly making all pond areas easy to clean. The Nozzles are brightly coloured which gives good in-pond visibility, the head unit also features cutter blades so that any large debris passing through can be chopped up to avoid blockages.

The Hozelock Pond Vacuum has a total reach of 2 meters, this is achieved by connecting four rigid aluminium tubes through which the waste passes, these are attached to an adjustable handle to provide comfortable operation and full control. The power cable leading from the head assembly is clipped to the outside of the tubing to keep it neatly out of the way. The extracted waste is passed through a waste hose. All water and toxic waste is removed from the pond to ensure no harmfull pollutants are returnd. The connector joining the waste hose to the handle is transparent and provides a visible check on the amount of debris that is being removed. Additional lengths of tubing can be added for particularly deep ponds and extra waste hose can be connected using standard hose couplings.

The Hozelock Pond Vac is a compact and lightweight, pond vacuum for quick cleaning and removing waste from ponds with a minimum of effort.

Technical Data:

Pump rating 80W
Suction Power -53mBar
Cable length 10m

Product length 2.3 meters
Waste Hose Length 3m 

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The Hozelock Easyclear is an excellent pond filter and is suited to small ornamental ponds no larger than 4000 litres, there are two versions the Easyclear 6000, 4 in 1 (for ponds up to 4000 litres) and the Easyclear 3000, 3 in 1 (for ponds up to 2000 litres), these were formally called the Easyclear 4000 and Easyclear 2000, but where re-branded 6000 and 3000 in January 2007.

The beauty of these products is that they offer an all in one in pond solution, all you need is get the unit drop it into your pond and switch it on. Aesthetically the unit looks good because it sits in your pond you have no filter boxes and pipe-work to conceal and hide!What does the 3 in 1 and 4 in 1 bit mean?

Well the 3 in 1 is a UVC (5 Watt PLS bulb), a Filter (Sponge) and a Fountain in 1 unit, the 4 in 1 is a UVC (9W PLS bulb), a Filter (Sponge), a fountain, and has an outlet to provide a small Waterfall.

Both units have useful features such as a ball joint for easy levelling of the fountain head, feet for stability, fountain stem extension pieces for varying pond depths, 3 fountain heads (2 Tier, 3 Tier and Bell), Flow control to adjust the size of the fountain, and a flow control to adjust the waterfall (4 in1 only, outlet size 25mm).

Maintenance is simple by pressing the 2 grey buttons on the front of the unit the lid lifts up allowing removal of the sponge for easy cleaning, annually the UV bulb, quartz sleeve and sponge should be replaced with new units, this will ensure the unit operates and runs smoothly for many years. It is worthwhile removing the impellor and cleaning any debris from inside its housing periodically too.

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Tetra SAFESTART

This product is absolutely fantastic, it enables you to put a whole community of fish instantly into a brand new aquarium, and activate the filters instantaneously, by the addition of the correct doseage of SAFESTART, I have just set up a new tank full of Altum Angels and have used this product, I monitored and tested daily for Ammonia and Nitrate, and could only get a trace reading at best!

Tetra SafeStart allows you to rapidly stock a new aquarium with fish. It contains a patented blend of the bacteria responsible for removing harmful ammonia and nitrite from aquarium water. These bacteria are not found in any other product, and work to instantly activate the filter. By removing ammonia and nitrite they create a safe environment for fish, allowing you to enjoy your new aquarium with the minimal amount of maintenance.

SafeStart is the result of years of research into the bacteria responsible for ammonia and nitrite removal in aquarium filters. This has shown that the bacteria traditionally thought to remove ammonia and nitrite, and therefore included in other filter´start products, are not responsible for maintaining a healthy aquarium. By identifying and then culturing those bacteria which truly are involved in ammonia and nitrite removal, SafeStart is able to offer a relaible means of quickly activating new filters. This in turn allows the instant introduction of new fish, and ensures a better environment for them.

When setting up a new aquarium: Set the aquarium up and turn on all equipment. Wait at least 24hrs to ensure that the equipment is working correctly, and to allow the aquarium to reach the correct temperature. Then add 5ml of SafeStart per 6 litres of water, at the same time as adding the fish. We recommend a stocking level of adult fish equivalent to 1cm per litre. This refers to the eventual size of the fish, not the size when they are added (e.g. 10 Neon Tetras at 1.5cm each are equivalent to approximately 25cm when adult).

Following filter maintenance, water quality problems, or water changes: Add 5ml of SafeStart per 6 litres of water, following any aquarium maintenance.

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Greenwater
Unlike lakes and rivers, ornamental garden ponds are generally of small size with limited depth. Therefore they can warm up more quickly than natural bodies of water; they also have greater sunlight penetration and a higher concentration of nutrients. These conditions stimulate the growth of algae, which cause greenwater problems. These conditions can be reduced by maximising pond volume, minimising stocking levels, placement of pond away from direct sunlight, or blocking sunlight using canopies or pergolas, not overfeeding fish, and using correct food ie wheatgerm during cold periods. The best way of preventing greenwater after taking all these considerations into account will be to utilise the correctly rated pump, filter and UVC. Pollution Caused by Fish Waste
Compared with natural ponds, garden ponds are usually heavily stocked with fish, which are fed more than they would normally find to eat in their natural habitat. Fish produce waste in proportion to the amount of food eaten. This waste is both solid and dissolved; this pollution is increased by the decomposition of plants and uneaten food. If these waste products are not removed they will eventually have a detrimental effect on your fish. Filtration is the key here, your filter should be large enough to cope with the demand placed upon it, if you wish to have large stocking levels, and you are intending to feed large amounts of high protein food in order to grow your fish to impressive sizes, then purchase a large efficient filter that can cope with these demands. Closely monitor your fishes behaviour, watch for anything unusual, this will be a sign that things are not as they should be, follow the pond feeding guidelines on this website, and remove any uneaten food or decomposing plant matter.

Herons
Herons are the number one enemy of fish ponds. Besides catching and eating healthy fish, they injure others which die later. They are most troublesome in spring when they have young to feed, not in winter. They are no longer fooled by fake “decoy” herons. Deter them by putting a trip-wire around the pond or using an electric heron alert, or cover the pond with a net. Herons are less of a problem in towns or where a pond is close to tall fences, a shed or a greenhouse, as they need a long, shallow flight path before landing.

Lack of Oxygen
Both green water and pollution can reduce the level of oxygen in pondwater. However, relatively high concentrations of oxygen are necessary to support healthy fish. The introduction of air into pondwater i.e. aeration, raises and stabilises the level of oxygen in the water. In addition the turbulence created by aeration will remove toxic gases. During the summer months when water temperatures rise lack of oxygen can become a problem, suspect this if you see your fish gasping at the surface.

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ICH - White spot disease. Any parasitic infection is usually easy to cure if treated quickly with an effective dose of copper. If the dosage is too low, not all parasites are killed and re-infection results. If treatment is delayed, the parasites may become so numerous that they choke the gills and the fish suffocates or the fish becomes so weak it cannot recover. Treatment should continue for at least 4 days and a good rule of thumb is to treat the system every day until no sign of infection is visible, then treat one more day.
Signs of a parasite infestation are:
1. Visible spots, usually white. 2. Rapid or heavy breathing. Some parasites will attack the gills before any can be seen on the fins or body, and the fish may die from suffocation. 3. Scratching. If a fish constantly rubs against objects in the system and looks like he is trying to dislodge something, he is probably trying to rub something off and it is probably parasitic.

OODINIUM: This is actually a form of algae parasitic on fishes.
ANCHOR WORMS: These are easily visible and look like little sticks about 1/4″ long protruding from the body or fins. They are firmly attached and when pulled out may hold onto a piece of flesh.
FISH LICE: Are crustacean parasites with similar treatment as per anchor worms. They are about one quarter inch flattened discs with rasping mouth parts and hook-armored legs capable of damaging fins and skin.
LYMPHOCYSTIS: This is a virus that lives off of impurities in the water while attached to a fish. It does not live off the fish like ICH, but may kill indirectly by interfering with gill movement, swimming ability, or eating.
BACTERIA: Bacteria grow erratically and are often white or milky in appearance. A bacteria infection may be localized or may be evident on several areas of the fish. Bacteria infections are likely to be found in or around open sores or any area where the fish has lost it’s protective slime coating.
FUNGUS: Fungus spreads evenly, starting from a central point and growing in an outward pattern. Several areas may grow outward until they overlap and give the appearance of a bacteria infection. Fungus is white with a velvety or even hairy appearance. It is most likely to be found on the mouth, eyes, or tips of the fins.
POPEYE: This is a symptom, not a disease caused by a specific organsim. It is manifested by swelling behind the eye(s), or in the eye(s). The swelling may be caused by many factors but is most commonly caused by bacteria.
SWIM BLADDER DISEASE: The swim bladder is the organ which allows a fish to stay at any level in the water column without sinking or floating. The swim bladder may fail from damage by bacteria, parasites, genetic faults, or blows and/or bruises. When the swim bladder fails to function the fish loses it’s ability to swim normally and may swim sideways or even upside down.
DROPSY: Dropsy is a name given to any disease that causes a fish to swell so much that the scales no longer lay flat against the body of the fish. By looking down on a fish you can easily spot a case of dropsy.
SUFFOCATION: Rapid breathing or gulping near the top of the tank may mean a fish is not getting enough oxygen. This may be caused by:
1. No air circulation. 2. Temperature is too high. 3. The water surface is covered. 4. Parasites. 5. Overmedication burning gills, rupturing blood cells, causing too much mucus production.
BRAIN DAMAGE: Fish may show any unusual symptoms. This should be only offered as a diagnosis after all other possibilities have been ruled out. Erratic, jerky swimming or spinning are common signs of brain damage. Brain damage can be caused by parasites, bruising (concussion), high or low temperatures, or toxins.
TOXINS: Symptoms look the same as brain damage, but all or most of the fish in the system are affected at once. Spinning is the most frequent sign of a toxin.

OPEN SORES: These can be caused by:
1. PH that is too high or low. 2. Scraping on rocks or other objects. 3. Bites. 4. Parasites. 5. Internal infections reaching the outside. 6. Net damage during handling.

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Choosing the right type of pond for your own needs is the important first step. If you have a patio, your pond could be the focal point or it could be the centre feature of your landscaped lawn. It could also brighten a gloomy or neglected corner of your garden.
If you are interested in natural water garden you could create an almost totally natural pond, rich in native plants and a haven for all types of aquatic life. But remember such a pond would have a natural appearance and typically is not suited for ornamental fish because of the lack of proper filtration and it’s vulnerability to predators such as herons.
Another area of importance will be to decide whether you wish to keep beautiful plants and common ornamental fish in your pond or whether you are considering the possibility of a beautiful Koi pond. Because the site and construction for both ponds are very different you will be much more successful with your pond if you commit to a type of pond before you begin excavation.
The shape of your pond takes on two different styles. An informal pond has no straight edges and no symmetrical shape and may be designed to blend in with the contours of your garden landscape. Alternatively, a formal pond does have a regular shape and can be raised above the ground using brickwork to draw the eye to its symmetry.
Both types of pond are ideal for keeping aquatic plants and pond fish. A waterfall and a fountain or other moving water feature would usually compliment such pools.
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No matter what size you plan your pond to be, you will always wish you had made it larger. A pond 100 sq ft of surface area or larger provides an ideal amount of surface area for many varieties of aquatic plants and fish. This is not to say however that a smaller pond or a container garden cannot be enjoyable or interesting. The minimum depth should be 18 inches for ponds with plants and ornamental fish that are not Koi. However, if you are in a colder climate or are keeping only Koi your depths should be 3 ft or deeper. The proper depth will enable fish to survive the winter more easily and keep them cool in the summer months. A shelf of 12-18 inches wide and about 9-12 inches below the surface can be created for the placement of marginal plants and some other potted aquatic plants.
Once you have decided on the type of pond you would enjoy, it’s time to decide where to locate your pond. Locating a pond where there is too much sunlight should be avoided. Sunlight promotes the growth of algae and may cause the temperature of the water to rise dramatically during warmer weather, decreasing oxygen levels. To avoid this problem, position your pond where it will receive some shade, especially during the afternoon when the sun is the strongest. 5-6 hours of direct sunlight is ideal for most ponds with plants and ponds that are less than 18 inches in depth.
Beware of siting your pond beneath trees or near their roots to avoid leaves falling into the pond and potential root damage to the liner. As well as being unsightly, rotting vegetation in the water may adversely effect the quality of the water, which could cause harm to the fish. Another important consideration will be to site your pond close enough to an electricity source so you can incorporate a pump, filtration or lighting.

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LINERS
This can be either a rigid pre-formed pond or a flexible sheet liner. Both are easy to install and extremely durable. A pre-formed pond has the advantage of ready made planting shelves and areas for placing submersible pumps though a flexible liner allows you more creativity and a more individual design. Pre-formed ponds tend to be limited in size, when choosing a liner purchase a good quality preferably butyl liner with a 20 year plus guarantee, protect the underside of the liner by removing sharp rocks, and placing a thick layer of soft sand beneath the liner.
PUMPS
A pump is essential for circulating water through filtration systems. Pumps are also used for creating moving water displays such as waterfalls or fountains which, as well as being attractive features, will help to maintain oxygen levels during warm weather. Your pump should be able to pump at least half of the pond’s water volume per hour. There are a wide range of pumps on the market, bear in mind the pump will be running 24 hrs a day, so check out the pumps wattage, low wattage=low running costs, If you choose a solids handling pump you,ll have less maintenance, and no prefilters to clean, they are also good at removing debris from the pond bottom, to the filter were it can be removed.
FILTERS
Your filter keeps your pond water clear and healthy, they will use both mechanical and biological filtration to achieve this. Biological filtration utilises bacteria on the pond filter media to break down fish waste and organic matter. Mechanical filtration captures particles in a physical filter for removal during filter cleaning. A good pond filter will achieve both. Your garden pond filter should filter half the pond volume every hour at a minimum. Garden ponds that are exposed to the sun for more than 6 hours a day, or have Koi, should have a slightly larger filter to cope with this extra demand.UVC
An Ultra-Violet Clarifier is highly effective in keeping your pond free of water-borne algae which will make the pond water green, free-floating single celled algae cause green water in ponds. This algae is too small to catch even with an effective mechanical pond filter. UVCs expose the algae particles to enough UV light so that they clump together (flocculate). These larger particles can then be easily filtered out as they pass through the pond filter. LIGHTING
Lighting can really add a creative dimension to your pond at night. Lighting can be inserted into the pond, behind a waterfall, in a fountain, above the water, and even placed around the perimeter of the pond. Being able to see your pond at night can add a warm, relaxed mood or feeling to your garden. Pond lights are simple to install and will enable you to create magical effects at night time.

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Although is may seem obvious, aquatic plants are different to land based plants, because they have evolved to live in wet even submerged conditions. There are three principle groups of aquatic plants, all with specific needs:

Marginal or Bog plants - These are essentially the plants that stick up above the surface of the water and provide height to the pond. They can be planted into waterlogged ground or more commonly into plastic planting baskets, which are then placed into the water.
Planting Depth: 6 - 8 inches Care: Plant into planting baskets using aquatic compost, when the plant starts to die back in the autumn / fall, cut back the plant to ensure that the decaying plant material does not pollute the water. Feed once a season with an aquatic root fertiliser. Cultivation: Generally these plants can be cultivated by division in the spring, although because of the huge number of plants in this section it’s best to consult your nursery.

Hardy Examples: Water Iris, Pickeral Rush, Arrowhead,
Tender Examples: Papyrus, Umbrella plant, Water Cannas

Floating Plants - These floating plants have extensive root systems that dangle into the water from the surface, these root systems provide ideal spawning areas for fish like goldfish. They often reproduce by budding and as such can be very invasive.

Planting Depth: Allow to float unplanted on the surface

Care: They only care required is for tender variety if they are needed the following season. Take a strong plant in the early autumn and keep in pond water in a well lit frost free greenhouse. Periodically replace the water with fresh water. Stratiodes (the water soldier) sinks to the bottom of the pond in the winter and rises again in the spring.

Cultivation: Because these plants bud so easily, they can be cultivated by cutting the offspring away from the parent to produce a new plant.

Hardy examples: Water Soldier
Tender Examples: Water Hyacinth, Water Lettuce
Oxygenators - These are plants that are not very visable, as they are present under the water. But they can fulfil a useful role in the pond. They absorb nutrients, and can help to reduce the growth of algae in the pond. Calling them oxygenators can be a misnomer as although they produce oxygen during the day, they absorb it again at night. Oxygenation is best achieved using a pond pump.
Planting Depth: up to 18″

Care: These plants are usually purchased in clumps unpotted, and they do best when they are potted into planting containers with aquatic compost and dressed with pea gravel. Depending on the size of the container you should get 3 - 6 bunches per pot. You should have one bunch for every 2sq feet of pond surface.

Cultivation: When the plant becomes too big, simply cut a length off and plant up into a fresh container.
Examples: Anacharis, hornwort, cabomba.

Deep Water Plants - These plants have leaves that float on the surface and roots that are firmly placed in containers on the bottom of the pond. Water lilies are generally the best known aquatic plant. They are available in an enormous assortment of varieties and colours. Other plants like lilies are available.
Planting Depth: Variable up to 3′

Care: These plants should be in water that is at a depth specific to the variety in question. They should be planted in a generously sized container rich in nutrients, the compost should be covered with Pea Gravel and larger stones. If this does not prevent your fish from digging up the compost in their quest for food, then try enclosing the whole container with an old pair of nylons. These plants need regular feeding if they are to flower prolifically throughout the whole season. Dead leaves and flowers should be removed or else they will rot and pollute the water.

Cultivation: The lilies can be propagated by cutting sections from the rhizome, and planting in fresh compost . This should be done when the plant is entering the growing phase, not at the end of the season.
Examples: Many varieties of hardy, tropical, and night blooming lily, also water hawthorn, water fringe, water snowflake, and water poppy.

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