Value Aquatics

Containers
In smaller ponds, aquatic plants benefit from being grown in containers as this prevents them becoming too large or invasive. Proprietary containers (aquatic baskets) usually have lattice sides to allow water and gas movement. All but those with a finer mesh need lining with hessian or polypropelene materials to prevent soil washing from the container.
Soil
Compost suitable for planting aquatic plants should be a medium to heavy loam. Garden soil can be used if it is suitable and free from fertiliser and herbicides. Otherwise proprietary aquatic compost should be used which may also contain a slow-release fertiliser.
Feeding
Hungry plants such as waterlilies, benefit from regular dividing and re-potting in fresh soil. They may benefit from a supplementary feed in the spring of a specialist aquatic feed, when not being potted on, to encourage better flowering.
Planting
� � � � � � Mid-spring is the best time to purchase new plants through to early summer. At this time the water is warming up and plants should start to grow.
� � � � � � Choose an appropriate container for the size of the plant.
� � � � � � For stability, ballast in the form of large rocks or stones may be needed in the base of containers for taller plants.
� � � � � � Part fill the container with compost.
� � � � � � Plants should be planted to the same depth as in the original container, and rhizomes planted at the surface.
� � � � � � Firm plants in well.
� � � � � � Add shingle, or heavier pebbles as a finishing layer to prevent bottom feeders such as koi from dislodging the plants.
Deep water aquatics
These can be bought as container-grown or bare-rooted plants. Container-grown plants may need potting into larger containers. Bare-rooted plants should have old roots and large leaves removed before planting. Plants may need to be raised on bricks and lowered in stages as their leaves reach the surface, until the appropriate depth is reached.
Floating plants
Introduce floating aquatics to the pool by placing gently on the waters surface. Clumps may need separating first. One plant per square metre of surface area should be sufficient. Avoid invasive floating plants such as Azolla filiculoides (fairy moss) and Lemna minor (duckweed), especially in larger ponds.
Marginals
If bought in plastic pots or small baskets, replant into aquatic baskets. When planting bare-rooted plants in summer, trim back the tops by half and trim the roots back to within 2.5cm (1in) of the crown.
Submerged aquatics
Oxygenating plants can be purchased as bunches which can be planted into baskets to keep them in control. They will need anchoring firmly in place. Approximately four to five bunches, each containing three to four stems, per square metre of water surface should be sufficient. Too much will have a negative effect on oxygen levels. As these plants respire at night large quantities can lead to a lack of oxygen at night in the summer causing fish to die. Avoid invasive species such as Myriophyllum aquaticum.

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Smaller ponds may need cleaning out every four to five years, larger ponds after 10 years. Cleaning removes decaying debris at the bottom of the pond and provides a chance for repairs, propagation and planting.

The time to do this is in late spring, a good time to split plants. For wildlife ponds pond cleaning can be damaging, but less so in autumn or late winter. Try to plan the operation so that it can be completed in one day if possible, as this is less stressful to fish.

The first task should be to prepare a holding tank in a shady spot for fish and deep water plants. Marginals will survive out of the pond as long as they are kept moist and shaded. Use some pond water in the holding tank unless cloudy. Draining the pond using a pump is easiest (hired if necessary). Start removing fish as the water level falls and they become less active and more visible.

Remove plants as the water level lowers, to the holding areas. Remove decaying plant material and heap it up beside the pool for later removal. This will allow any hidden creatures to return to the pool. Remove larger creatures to the holding tank.

Remove the silt in the base, spreading it on neighbouring borders. Keep back some of the silt to add to the clean pond to re-establish microscopic life. Clean the liner and make any necessary repairs.

Return the saved silt and any pond water. Refill with water and replant in stages. Re-pot or divide plants before returning them to the pond, where this is necessary. Examine fish before returning them to the pond. Finally return marginals before completely refilling.

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Feed your fish “Little and Often” if this is possible, if not feed your fish twice daily, the food you give them should be consumed within a matter on minutes. Give your fish as much variety as possible, combine frozen, dry and live foods, and feed your fish nothing one day a week. Check out the protein levels of dry foods, some may not be suitable for the fish in your aquarium.
If your keeping common tropicals I would recommend a water change twice a month, and giving your aquarium glass a wipe inside with a soft cloth / or pair of old tights, a couple of times a week. When you carry out your water change use a gravel cleaner and siphon out approximately a third of the aquarium water, whilst cleaning the substrate at the same time. If your running an undergravel filter place the siphon tube down the uplift tube, to remove the sludge from under the undergravel filter plates, remove any dead plant leaves and generally give the tank a good stir up. When refilling the tank the new water needs to be dechlorinated and a similar or slightly higher temperature to that in the tank.

Water quality is the most important factor in sucessfully keeping fish, the more water changes you carry out the better the quality on your tank water.
Any uneaten food and fish waste decomposes in your tank to produce ammonia, high levels of ammonia will kill your fish. Your mature filter will convert the ammonia into nitrite, but nitrite is also posionous to your fish and high levels will have the same consequence. Your mature filter will convert nitrite to nitrate, this is harmless to your fish, but if you do not carry out regular water changes eventually nitrate levels will grow and have an adverse effect on your fishes growth rate. This is called the “nitrogen cycle” and needs to be monitored when your setting up a new aquarium, you must allow your filters to mature and your filter colonies to grow before you introduce fish to a new aquarium, I would recommend allowing a newly set up aquarium at least 10 days before introducing any fish, then only introduce a few fish at a time, you can purchase kits or get your local pet shop to carry out a test on your water should you experience any problems. Some tropical fish are more hardy than others, introduce the more hardy species first.
What you place in your tank is your choice. But you should be aware, some rocks can leach unwanted chemicals into your tank and new bogwood will have a staining effect on your tank water. Place rocks in your tank in such a way to prevent them falling onto the glass sides, be carefull not to scratch the insides of your tank when placing or removing rocks in the tank, and use them to create caves and hiding places in your tank. Some rocks can effect ph and are used for this reason, ie “tuffa” rock is used in a “malawi” set up to buffer the water to create a ph around 8.5, this is obviously not suitable for use in a tropical aquarium were the desirable ph range will be 6.0 - 7.0.

If your thinking of using plants as part of the tank décor consider using plastic plants, they do not die and decompose, large fish won’t damage them and they look nearly as good as the real thing!

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To help keep the water clear and healthy it is important to develop a balance of plants within the pond.

Mid-spring through to early summer is the best time to purchase new plants. At this time the water is warming up and plants should start to grow away rapidly. In smaller ponds, aquatic plants benefit from being grown in containers as this prevents them becoming too large or invasive. Compost suitable for planting aquatic plants should be a medium to heavy loam.

Plants play an important role in keeping a balanced pool free of algae in summer. Floating plants reduce the amount of sunlight penetrating the water and keep the water cooler, discouraging algae. Introduce free-floating aquatics to the pool by placing gently on the water surface. Aim to keep around 50% of the surface clear of vegetation, if necessary by thinning occasionally during the summer.

Deep-water aquatics with floating leaves such as waterlilies benefit from regular dividing and re-potting because of their vigour. Place containers on raised bricks lowered in stages as their leaves reach the surface, until the appropriate depth is reached. When not being potted on, waterlilies benefit from a supplementary feed in the spring of a specialist aquatic food to encourage better flowering.

Marginal plants are valuable for shading pool margins where algae may otherwise multiply in the warm, shallow water.

Submerged oxygenating plants are vital to pool hygiene and balance. They can be purchased as bunches which can be planted into baskets to keep them in control anchored firmly in place. Approximately four to five bunches, with three to four stems, per square metre of water surface should be sufficient. Plants respire at night in hot humid weather releasing carbon dioxide and depleting oxygen levels which can cause fish to die. Thin out excessive growth and avoid invasive species such as Myriophyllum aquaticum.

Avoid overpopulating the pool with fish. Run a fountain on hot humid nights or play water over the surface of the pool from a hose to improve oxygenation.

Throughout the summer monitor water levels and top up regularly when necessary. Tap water will contain mineral salts and may lead to an algal bloom.

Start removing dead leaves and debris from plants early in the autumn to avoid decomposing vegetation building up in the pond.

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Marine fish have fantastic colour, but you will need to have a large tank to keep a small community of fish, you will require additional equipment such as a protein skimmer. I would not recommend keeping Marine fish untill you at least 2-3 years experience in the hobby

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The cichlids of lake Malawi and Tanganikan are very active and colourfull fish and will always produce a stunning display, they require a water ph around 8-8.5, and are very teritorial and aggressive, Give Mbuna plenty of rocky caves to hide in and slightly over stock the tank, you should be looking to keep a community of 30-40 fish in a 4ft tank

Large cichlids, Angel fish and Discus should be avoided by the complete beginner, until they have grasped the basics of keeping a healthy community of fish, and have decided they would like more of a challenge. These fish are certainly more rewarding but require a lot more time and effort dedicated to their upkeep, to produce the right results. For example to sucessfully keep and grow young Discus to a good size, will require frequent feeding of high quality frozen foods, daily water changes, and close attention to water quality and ph.

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The type of fish you are going to keep, will basically dictate what type of equipment and aquarium you will need to purchase. It is worth looking through some books, magazines or checking out the internet to get an idea of what you fancy, and spending time at your local pet shop, or garden center. Most Aquatic outlets are owned by hobbyists and they should offer you plenty of advice and guidance. It may be worth asking them about there policy should you decide to return some fish, you may decide after keeping tetra’s and gourami’s for six months that you would like to keep something a little more challenging, and returning your fish will be your only option should you fancy a complete change.

Common Tropicals
There are a lot of common tropical fish which will thrive in a mixed community, you should choose young fish of similar sizes, and buy a pair, a trio or small group of fish. Think about were the fish will swim and how active they are, and pick a range of fish that will compliment one another.

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If your new to the hobby and you’re thinking of setting up an aquarium then the following pages should be of some use. Before you make your purchase you should have a good idea of what you want, and how much it will cost, If you feel we have missed anything out of this section please let us know via the contact us page and we will add the missing information.

Budget

You should have a rough idea of what its all going to cost, and how much you can afford to spend. If your budget is limited then think about buying second hand equipment. Your local pet shop will probably have some second hand equipment, and there will certainly be plenty of tanks for sale in your local newspaper. There is nothing wrong with buying second hand equipment as long as you inspect it closely before purchasing, and shop around a little , there are plenty of nearly new aquaria for sale, if you search hard enough. If you are buying second hand then take a friend who has some experience in the hobby, if purchasing a second hand tank, inspect the glass for scratches before purchasing.

Here is an example of how costs can mount up NEW VERSUS OLD:

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Eyes - The eyes are just forward of the gills. Koi can see in two directions at same time - to either side of the body as well as above or below on each side. Nostrils - The nostrils are just forward and slightly above the eyes. The nostrils are used purely for scent.

Barbel - The barbels located are located on the upper lip of the koi and contain many sense receptors to help locate food.

Gills - Gills have a similar function to the lungs. The gills are served by a series of fine blood vessels. As the water passes over the gills, oxygen is absortbed through the blood vessels and then transported directly to the body. Carbon Dioxide is return to the water via the gills.

Fin (Pectorial) - The pectorial fins are paired and located on the lower sides of the koi. They can be used to rotate the koi almost on the same axis, this is done by one fin working in the other direction to the other. The also act as the main braking fins, they achived this by placing the fins out to provide a large surface area to the water. They also use them when looking for food to stir up the bottom.

Liver - The liver helps remove waste from the blood and controls the use of digested food. It also produces bile which is used in the digestion and absorption of fat.

Gall Bladder - Located just below the liver, the Gall Bladder stores bile and releases it to help with digestion.

Fin (Pelvic) - The pelvic or ventral fins are paired and located on the lower sides of the koi approx mid body. The pelvic fins enable the koi tp rise or descend as it swims, you could say they act as hydrofoils.

Spleen - The spleen produces lymph cells (a yellow fuild consisting mostly of blood plasma and white blood ceels) and stores red blood cells.

Repoductive organs - The internal sex organs of the male are the testes and the ovaries of the female. In both the male and female they are located below the swimbladder. Eggs and sperm exit the boby via the gonopores which is located just in front of the urinary opening. The gonopores are connect by the gonoduct.

Anal Pore - The anal pore is located just forward of the anal fin. The waste products of the koi’s digestive system are expelled via the anal pore. Water in the form of urine is also expelled via the anal pore.

Urinary Bladder - The urinary bladder plays an important part for the koi. As the salt content of the koi is higher then that of the water in which it lives the koi’s body is continually taking in water which tries to equalize the salt concentation, this is known as osmosis. As a result of this process the koi must release the excess water, otherwise it would blow up like a balloon.
Anal Fin - The anal fin located just forward of the tail and is primary for stabilisation.

Caudal or Tail - The caudal (tail) acts as the koi’s rudder and can be used to gain maximum speed/thrust.

Kidney

Swim Bladder - The swimbladder, located just below the backbone consists of 2 different size chambers. Fish adjust their position by inflating or deflating these chambers, this changes the density relative to the surrounding water. In conjunction with the auditory system it controls the fishes orientation, level at which they swim etc.

Dorsal Fin - The dorsal fin located on the top of the koi is the major stabilizing fin. It works in a similar fashion to a keel on a ship by keeping the koi upright. Koi can lower the dorsal fin to create a more streamlined effect when the koi needs to move at faster speeds.

Lateral Line - The lateral line runs roughly along the mid-body of the koi. The lateral line is a row of special pores that open into a channel which runs to the head and brain of the koi. The channel is filled with a viscous solution which is extremly sensitive to vibrations in the water.

Ears - Fish have internal ears that repsond to vibrations within the water. The auditory canal is connected to swin bladder and is used for balance.

Mouth - The mouth of Koi are located in an inferior position - not quite at the tip of the head but slightly below. This indicates that it has bottom feeding habits.

Colour - The colour variations in koi is determined by the amount of guanin cells (reflective tissue) in the skin below the scales (dermis). The guanin cells contain waste by-products of the bodies metabolism. The outlayer (epidermis) cells contain colour pigments, these are Erythrophores (contain red or orange pigment granules), Melanophores (contain the black pigment melanin), Xyanthophores (contain yellow pigment granules). Their placement in the skin will determine the colour of a koi. The more complete the guanin cell layer, the more metalic the apperance of the koi as and if this layer is partially or completly missing more colour are visable deeper.

Mucus Layer - The mucus layer covers the entire external area of the koi. The mucus layer provides protection for bacteria and fungus and gives the koi there slippery feel. It is therefore important that you hands are wet before handing koi, to ensure that the mucus layer is not damaged.
Digestive System - The digestive system of koi is more or less like that of any higher animals but differs from many as the koi doesn’t have a stomach as such. Food enters via the mouth and is crudly crushed by the pharyngeal teeth (bony projections from the gill supports). From there it passed into esophagus and then into the intestines. The anterior part of the in intestines are swollen and look a lot like a stomach. The intestines long and coiled, usually 4-5 times the length of the koi. The is due to the fact the the vegetable matter eaten by the koi require more time within the body to be broken down so that the goodness is released. The intestines exit the body at the anal pore.

Nervous System - The nervous system of a koi consists of optic and other sensory nerves that radiate from the head. Fine fibers at the nerve endings transmit and receive message to the koi’s brain, which is relatively simple. The koi’s spinal cord helps protect the central nervous system which extends to all parts of the body.

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