Value Aquatics

One of the biggest problems in the Autumn and Winter is when leaves begin to fall from the trees above. If these leaves get in the pond and decay it will throw off the ecological balance of the pond. Remove by using a net to skim the leaves off the surface of the pond. FISH

As the water temperature falls we should be feeding our fish less as their metabolism slows down. After the water temperature drops you should decrease the amount of food given and feed only once a day. Once the temperature drops below 10 degrees C you should stop feeding altogether. Cold-water fish such as Goldfish and Koi cannot digest food properly below these temperatures. They will happily munch on algae and other natural foods if the water does warm up occasionally.

Do not allow your pond to completely freeze over, make sure you have a small area free from ice, as organics decompose in the pond they can produce toxic gases that can become trapped in the pond if it is covered by ice for more than a few days. Do not break the ice as the shock waves created can damage or kill your fish. Defrost a small area using warm water.

PLANTS

As plants are starting to die back, any dead and dying leaves should be removed,
place plants deep enough in the pond to keep the roots from freezing.

PUMPS & FILTERS

It is advantageous to keep your pump and filter running through the winter. The bacteria in your biological filter will not be active at low temperatures but it will remain alive as long as you keep it supplied with oxygenated water. When spring arrives and the water temperatures begin to rise the bacteria can start to work immediately keeping the water quality healthy for your fish and helping to control the algae. Should you choose to run your filter through the winter it is a good idea to minimize the water circulation.

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Pond filters
Decomposition of fish waste and plant debris releases toxins into ponds and depletes oxygen levels in the water. Simple ponds with few or no fish should not require filters. However, they are essential for stocked ponds where imbalances in the pond’s ecosystem are more likely to occur.
Mechanical filters
Mechanical filters simply remove solids from the pond by straining water through gravel, brushes or foam filters. They can be fitted directly onto a submerged pump and are suitable for small ponds with only a moderate fish population. Regular cleaning is normally required to keep them working properly (about once a week in the height of summer) though self-cleaning models are also available. The filter is effective immediately it is switched on, unlike the biological types described below.
Combined filters
Combined filters that use mechanical, biological and even ultraviolet (UV) means are more suitable for larger ponds with large populations of fish. Most of these combined filters are pump-fed and have a gravity outlet, and so are positioned higher than the water return point. More complex pressure-fed models can be part-buried. Combined filters can be placed after specially designed water pumps which can handle solids.
Biological filters
Biological filtration relies on naturally occurring bacteria that colonise a specially designed filter medium with a large surface area. The bacteria convert ammonia, which is toxic to fish, and other nitrogen-based compounds into nitrates. These are then utilised by pond plants, thus removing nitrogen from the water. Biological systems are essential for ponds with substantial fish populations (especially koi, which produce 40% more waste than goldfish). Unless bacterial supplements are used, the bacterial population takes six weeks to build up. If the filter is switched off for more than 24 hours the bacteria die and a further six weeks is required to rebuild the population. Biological filters only require cleaning at the end of the season. If cleaning is essential during summer, use pond water, as the chlorine in tap water kills bacteria.
Ultraviolet lamps
Ultraviolet clarifiers are placed at the front of the biological filter system. They act by killing green algae and make it flocculate (clump together), easing mechanical filtration. However, they do not remove nutrients from the water. Pond water is exposed to radiation from a UV lamp held inside a quartz tube. There are lamps of different wattage for various pond sizes; most require replacement every six months or so.
Pond size
Having determined the correct filter type for a pond, calculate the size needed. Mechanical filter sizes are easy to relate to water volume. Multiply the pond’s average length X average width X average depth (in metres or feet to get cubic metres or feet). Multiply this figure by 1,000 to get the volume in litres. When calculating pond dimensions in feet, convert the cubic feet measurement to gallons by multiplying by 6.23.
More notes
Additional factors affect the system. A major cause of failure is when fish populations and feeding regimes are not taken into account. Water surface area, pond depth and exposure to sunlight also affect the size of filter required. Speak to specialist suppliers and, if in doubt, go for a larger rather than smaller size, aiming to circulate all the pond water through the filter every two to three hours.
Always consult a qualified electrician before installing a filter system.

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Gases such as methane and hydrogen sulphide that result from the decomposition of decaying plant material are poisonous to fish if levels build up. This occurs in winter if the pond freezes over, trapping gases under the surface.

Never smash the ice as the shock waves can kill the fish. Instead install a heater before the winter, so it can be switched on when a frost is expected, to melt a hole in the ice. Alternatively stand a pan of hot water on the surface to melt a hole.

Expanding ice can damage a pond by putting excessive amounts of pressure on the walls of the pond. A float made from polystyrene or an inflatable ball, absorbs some of this pressure. After removing the float it is possible to siphon out some of the water to create an air pocket below the ice. 

Running a fountain can prevent the water freezing in an area large enough to allow gases to escape. If a pump is left in over winter it is worth running it on a weekly basis to keep it operating efficiently.

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Containers
In smaller ponds, aquatic plants benefit from being grown in containers as this prevents them becoming too large or invasive. Proprietary containers (aquatic baskets) usually have lattice sides to allow water and gas movement. All but those with a finer mesh need lining with hessian or polypropelene materials to prevent soil washing from the container.
Soil
Compost suitable for planting aquatic plants should be a medium to heavy loam. Garden soil can be used if it is suitable and free from fertiliser and herbicides. Otherwise proprietary aquatic compost should be used which may also contain a slow-release fertiliser.
Feeding
Hungry plants such as waterlilies, benefit from regular dividing and re-potting in fresh soil. They may benefit from a supplementary feed in the spring of a specialist aquatic feed, when not being potted on, to encourage better flowering.
Planting
� � � � � � Mid-spring is the best time to purchase new plants through to early summer. At this time the water is warming up and plants should start to grow.
� � � � � � Choose an appropriate container for the size of the plant.
� � � � � � For stability, ballast in the form of large rocks or stones may be needed in the base of containers for taller plants.
� � � � � � Part fill the container with compost.
� � � � � � Plants should be planted to the same depth as in the original container, and rhizomes planted at the surface.
� � � � � � Firm plants in well.
� � � � � � Add shingle, or heavier pebbles as a finishing layer to prevent bottom feeders such as koi from dislodging the plants.
Deep water aquatics
These can be bought as container-grown or bare-rooted plants. Container-grown plants may need potting into larger containers. Bare-rooted plants should have old roots and large leaves removed before planting. Plants may need to be raised on bricks and lowered in stages as their leaves reach the surface, until the appropriate depth is reached.
Floating plants
Introduce floating aquatics to the pool by placing gently on the waters surface. Clumps may need separating first. One plant per square metre of surface area should be sufficient. Avoid invasive floating plants such as Azolla filiculoides (fairy moss) and Lemna minor (duckweed), especially in larger ponds.
Marginals
If bought in plastic pots or small baskets, replant into aquatic baskets. When planting bare-rooted plants in summer, trim back the tops by half and trim the roots back to within 2.5cm (1in) of the crown.
Submerged aquatics
Oxygenating plants can be purchased as bunches which can be planted into baskets to keep them in control. They will need anchoring firmly in place. Approximately four to five bunches, each containing three to four stems, per square metre of water surface should be sufficient. Too much will have a negative effect on oxygen levels. As these plants respire at night large quantities can lead to a lack of oxygen at night in the summer causing fish to die. Avoid invasive species such as Myriophyllum aquaticum.

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Smaller ponds may need cleaning out every four to five years, larger ponds after 10 years. Cleaning removes decaying debris at the bottom of the pond and provides a chance for repairs, propagation and planting.

The time to do this is in late spring, a good time to split plants. For wildlife ponds pond cleaning can be damaging, but less so in autumn or late winter. Try to plan the operation so that it can be completed in one day if possible, as this is less stressful to fish.

The first task should be to prepare a holding tank in a shady spot for fish and deep water plants. Marginals will survive out of the pond as long as they are kept moist and shaded. Use some pond water in the holding tank unless cloudy. Draining the pond using a pump is easiest (hired if necessary). Start removing fish as the water level falls and they become less active and more visible.

Remove plants as the water level lowers, to the holding areas. Remove decaying plant material and heap it up beside the pool for later removal. This will allow any hidden creatures to return to the pool. Remove larger creatures to the holding tank.

Remove the silt in the base, spreading it on neighbouring borders. Keep back some of the silt to add to the clean pond to re-establish microscopic life. Clean the liner and make any necessary repairs.

Return the saved silt and any pond water. Refill with water and replant in stages. Re-pot or divide plants before returning them to the pond, where this is necessary. Examine fish before returning them to the pond. Finally return marginals before completely refilling.

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To help keep the water clear and healthy it is important to develop a balance of plants within the pond.

Mid-spring through to early summer is the best time to purchase new plants. At this time the water is warming up and plants should start to grow away rapidly. In smaller ponds, aquatic plants benefit from being grown in containers as this prevents them becoming too large or invasive. Compost suitable for planting aquatic plants should be a medium to heavy loam.

Plants play an important role in keeping a balanced pool free of algae in summer. Floating plants reduce the amount of sunlight penetrating the water and keep the water cooler, discouraging algae. Introduce free-floating aquatics to the pool by placing gently on the water surface. Aim to keep around 50% of the surface clear of vegetation, if necessary by thinning occasionally during the summer.

Deep-water aquatics with floating leaves such as waterlilies benefit from regular dividing and re-potting because of their vigour. Place containers on raised bricks lowered in stages as their leaves reach the surface, until the appropriate depth is reached. When not being potted on, waterlilies benefit from a supplementary feed in the spring of a specialist aquatic food to encourage better flowering.

Marginal plants are valuable for shading pool margins where algae may otherwise multiply in the warm, shallow water.

Submerged oxygenating plants are vital to pool hygiene and balance. They can be purchased as bunches which can be planted into baskets to keep them in control anchored firmly in place. Approximately four to five bunches, with three to four stems, per square metre of water surface should be sufficient. Plants respire at night in hot humid weather releasing carbon dioxide and depleting oxygen levels which can cause fish to die. Thin out excessive growth and avoid invasive species such as Myriophyllum aquaticum.

Avoid overpopulating the pool with fish. Run a fountain on hot humid nights or play water over the surface of the pool from a hose to improve oxygenation.

Throughout the summer monitor water levels and top up regularly when necessary. Tap water will contain mineral salts and may lead to an algal bloom.

Start removing dead leaves and debris from plants early in the autumn to avoid decomposing vegetation building up in the pond.

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Eyes - The eyes are just forward of the gills. Koi can see in two directions at same time - to either side of the body as well as above or below on each side. Nostrils - The nostrils are just forward and slightly above the eyes. The nostrils are used purely for scent.

Barbel - The barbels located are located on the upper lip of the koi and contain many sense receptors to help locate food.

Gills - Gills have a similar function to the lungs. The gills are served by a series of fine blood vessels. As the water passes over the gills, oxygen is absortbed through the blood vessels and then transported directly to the body. Carbon Dioxide is return to the water via the gills.

Fin (Pectorial) - The pectorial fins are paired and located on the lower sides of the koi. They can be used to rotate the koi almost on the same axis, this is done by one fin working in the other direction to the other. The also act as the main braking fins, they achived this by placing the fins out to provide a large surface area to the water. They also use them when looking for food to stir up the bottom.

Liver - The liver helps remove waste from the blood and controls the use of digested food. It also produces bile which is used in the digestion and absorption of fat.

Gall Bladder - Located just below the liver, the Gall Bladder stores bile and releases it to help with digestion.

Fin (Pelvic) - The pelvic or ventral fins are paired and located on the lower sides of the koi approx mid body. The pelvic fins enable the koi tp rise or descend as it swims, you could say they act as hydrofoils.

Spleen - The spleen produces lymph cells (a yellow fuild consisting mostly of blood plasma and white blood ceels) and stores red blood cells.

Repoductive organs - The internal sex organs of the male are the testes and the ovaries of the female. In both the male and female they are located below the swimbladder. Eggs and sperm exit the boby via the gonopores which is located just in front of the urinary opening. The gonopores are connect by the gonoduct.

Anal Pore - The anal pore is located just forward of the anal fin. The waste products of the koi’s digestive system are expelled via the anal pore. Water in the form of urine is also expelled via the anal pore.

Urinary Bladder - The urinary bladder plays an important part for the koi. As the salt content of the koi is higher then that of the water in which it lives the koi’s body is continually taking in water which tries to equalize the salt concentation, this is known as osmosis. As a result of this process the koi must release the excess water, otherwise it would blow up like a balloon.
Anal Fin - The anal fin located just forward of the tail and is primary for stabilisation.

Caudal or Tail - The caudal (tail) acts as the koi’s rudder and can be used to gain maximum speed/thrust.

Kidney

Swim Bladder - The swimbladder, located just below the backbone consists of 2 different size chambers. Fish adjust their position by inflating or deflating these chambers, this changes the density relative to the surrounding water. In conjunction with the auditory system it controls the fishes orientation, level at which they swim etc.

Dorsal Fin - The dorsal fin located on the top of the koi is the major stabilizing fin. It works in a similar fashion to a keel on a ship by keeping the koi upright. Koi can lower the dorsal fin to create a more streamlined effect when the koi needs to move at faster speeds.

Lateral Line - The lateral line runs roughly along the mid-body of the koi. The lateral line is a row of special pores that open into a channel which runs to the head and brain of the koi. The channel is filled with a viscous solution which is extremly sensitive to vibrations in the water.

Ears - Fish have internal ears that repsond to vibrations within the water. The auditory canal is connected to swin bladder and is used for balance.

Mouth - The mouth of Koi are located in an inferior position - not quite at the tip of the head but slightly below. This indicates that it has bottom feeding habits.

Colour - The colour variations in koi is determined by the amount of guanin cells (reflective tissue) in the skin below the scales (dermis). The guanin cells contain waste by-products of the bodies metabolism. The outlayer (epidermis) cells contain colour pigments, these are Erythrophores (contain red or orange pigment granules), Melanophores (contain the black pigment melanin), Xyanthophores (contain yellow pigment granules). Their placement in the skin will determine the colour of a koi. The more complete the guanin cell layer, the more metalic the apperance of the koi as and if this layer is partially or completly missing more colour are visable deeper.

Mucus Layer - The mucus layer covers the entire external area of the koi. The mucus layer provides protection for bacteria and fungus and gives the koi there slippery feel. It is therefore important that you hands are wet before handing koi, to ensure that the mucus layer is not damaged.
Digestive System - The digestive system of koi is more or less like that of any higher animals but differs from many as the koi doesn’t have a stomach as such. Food enters via the mouth and is crudly crushed by the pharyngeal teeth (bony projections from the gill supports). From there it passed into esophagus and then into the intestines. The anterior part of the in intestines are swollen and look a lot like a stomach. The intestines long and coiled, usually 4-5 times the length of the koi. The is due to the fact the the vegetable matter eaten by the koi require more time within the body to be broken down so that the goodness is released. The intestines exit the body at the anal pore.

Nervous System - The nervous system of a koi consists of optic and other sensory nerves that radiate from the head. Fine fibers at the nerve endings transmit and receive message to the koi’s brain, which is relatively simple. The koi’s spinal cord helps protect the central nervous system which extends to all parts of the body.

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