Value Aquatics

For many people keeping fish is the main reason for having a pond. There is something intangible yet amazing about seeing fish in a pond, it will give the pond a magnetic draw, and they will become a source of constant pleasure for many years.

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Family Name: Cyprinidae (carps and minnows)
Length: Max 30.5cm (12″)
Weight: up to 0.9kg (2lb)
Identification: (Asiatic form) greenish when young changing to golden red as an adult, body shape variable, head scaleless, no barbels.
Habitat: Densely weeded lowland rivers, lakes, and ponds.
Breeding: Eggs laid on water plants in June and July, they take 7 -9 days to hatch, the young fish stay attached to the plants.

Note: Goldfish are the most common pondfish. Goldfish are inexpensive and fast growing. They are available in a variety of patterns and body shapes. Goldfish need a pond that has a minimum depth of 18″ but a pond closer to 2′6″ is more acceptable. However the more unusual varieties are less hardy than the true goldfish

Koi Carp (Cyprinus carpio)

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Family Name: Cyprinidae (carps and minnows)
Length: Max 150cm (4′ 11″)
Weight: up to 36kg (80lb) usually less
Identification: Scaleless head, body can be scaled or unscaled depending on the variety, as can colour , mouth toothless and has two barbels at each side.
Habitat: Large lakes and major rivers in slow flowing lowland areas
Breeding: Late spring in shallow sun warmed areas over dense vegetation. The eggs are attached to the plants.

Note: Koi are the most rewarding of pond fish. They are available in a bewildering selection of varieties. Don’t be put off by the Japanese names of the fish or by the high prices that they can fetch. If you see a fish you like in a pattern you like at a price you can afford - buy it. The most important thing is the health of the fish, a £2000 fish can die as easily as a £2 fish. That aside, Koi can grow to 3′ if conditions allow, they are fast growers and can consume a lot of food. They are avid rooters in pots and as a result can make the water dirty if an effective filter is not installed. The depth of the pond should be 3′ minimum

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One of the biggest problems in the Autumn and Winter is when leaves begin to fall from the trees above. If these leaves get in the pond and decay it will throw off the ecological balance of the pond. Remove by using a net to skim the leaves off the surface of the pond. FISH

As the water temperature falls we should be feeding our fish less as their metabolism slows down. After the water temperature drops you should decrease the amount of food given and feed only once a day. Once the temperature drops below 10 degrees C you should stop feeding altogether. Cold-water fish such as Goldfish and Koi cannot digest food properly below these temperatures. They will happily munch on algae and other natural foods if the water does warm up occasionally.

Do not allow your pond to completely freeze over, make sure you have a small area free from ice, as organics decompose in the pond they can produce toxic gases that can become trapped in the pond if it is covered by ice for more than a few days. Do not break the ice as the shock waves created can damage or kill your fish. Defrost a small area using warm water.

PLANTS

As plants are starting to die back, any dead and dying leaves should be removed,
place plants deep enough in the pond to keep the roots from freezing.

PUMPS & FILTERS

It is advantageous to keep your pump and filter running through the winter. The bacteria in your biological filter will not be active at low temperatures but it will remain alive as long as you keep it supplied with oxygenated water. When spring arrives and the water temperatures begin to rise the bacteria can start to work immediately keeping the water quality healthy for your fish and helping to control the algae. Should you choose to run your filter through the winter it is a good idea to minimize the water circulation.

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The following subjects are extensive, we will provide only basic advice on these pages:

Aquaria

Your fish will react to the conditions you provide for them, Your fish will thrive and provide you with full colour and rapid growth, if you give them enough room and feed them a good varied but balanced diet. For this reason buy an aquarium that offers volume and a large surface area, if your buying a smaller aquarium then reduce your stocking levels and buy smaller species! I own a Juwel Rio 400, the Juwel range offer cleverly designed beautifull aquaria and stands, that would compliment any room. If your considering a Juwel aquarium use the link on our links page to visit the Juwel site.

Filtration

One of the most important parts of your set up will be your filter, the filter will contain media, offering a large surface area to allow a colony of bacteria to grow, by passing water through this media any harmfull ammonia and nitrite in your water will be removed, providing healthy clear water for your fish community. I would strongly recommend encorporating more than one filter system in your tank, I would definitely advise backing your internal filtration up with an external system, or running two internal systems alongside each other!

Internal systems

One of the best systems is the undergravel filter, water is drawn down through your aquarium substrate and up an uplift tube using a powerhead or an air pump, this system utilises the whole of your substrate as the filter media allowing a substantial bacteria colony to develop, it also has little impact on the interia of your aquarium, all you see is the uplift tube which can easily be hidden with some tank décor. Another benefit of this system is any small particles or debris in your aquarium will be drawn down onto the substrate surface which will improve the water clarity.

Internal cannister type filters are similar to undergravels, they contain their own media inside the body of the filter and propel water through it using an impellor, they are normally positioned onto the side or back glass, with their outlet an inch or so below the surface of the water, this is advantageous as it provides surface ripples, increasing surface area and allowing more O2 to enter the water. I would recommend a “fluval” internal if considering this option.

External systems

The main advantage of an external is that they do not reduce the space available to your fish inside your aquaria, and you can carry out cleaning / maintenance on them without disruption to your tank, you will however need to consider routes for piping in and out of your aquaria.
I run a large Fluval external on my tank and I have run the pipes through the wall, the filter is situated in a cupboard on the other side, everyones situation is different you will need to consider the best option for yourself.

Other Systems

As you advance and become more confident and knowledgeable, you may wish to consider a centralised system running a number of tanks, or a specialised sytem such as a trickle filter.

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Heaters
Tropical fish require a temperature between approx. 20-30oC (68-86oF), with many species being kept at a ‘middle value’ of 24-25oC (75-77oF). Maintaining a stable temperature (and more importantly avoiding rapid changes) is vital to avoid stressing fish. The temperature of a tropical aquarium would normally be maintained using a combined heater/thermstat, placed inside the tank. These are available in a number of standard wattages between 25 watt and 300 watt. Some hobbyists will recommend, buying two heaters rather than one ie, instead of one 300 watt heater, use two 150 watt heaters, this is in case a heater sticks in the on position, it will have less of a heating effect on the tank. I would recommend buying one good quality heater such as a visitherm, these are extremely reliable and very rarely, do they give any problems, I would also recommend buying a thermometer to check water temperature, the ones that stick onto the outside glass are fine, check water temperature daily. Buy a heater with the smallest wattage rating for your size of tank, an increase in temperature has little impact on a fishes health, but a sudden fall in water temperature can cause harm. The table below gives examples of recommended heater wattages for various tank sizes. The modern combined heater-stats use very reliable thermocouples to maintain a stable temperature.

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Lighting

The lighting used in an aquarium is governed to a large extent by whether the tank is to contain live plants. If the tank will not contain plants (or only plastic plants) then the light need only provide a means to view the fish. The choice of lighting is then only governed by choosing a light which enhances the colours of fish. There are many different types of light tube available with varying spectrums, some give a strong blue light some give more of a yellow light. A light with more blue in its spectrum will bring out the blue colours in your fish, a light with more yellow in its spectrum will bring out the yellow colours in your fish. Think about the dominent colours in your fish selection and pick a light tube which will make the most of your fishes colours.

Planted tanks need more light than fish only tanks, and the type of lighting becomes more important. The light requirement of different plant species varies somewhat, but generally the light will need to be at least double that recommended for a fish only tank. A number of manufacturers produce fluorescent tubes designed to provide maximum plant growth. These include Arcadia’s Freshwater tube, Interpet’s Triton tube and Hagen’s Floraglo and Powerglo.
For heavily planted tanks, some may opt for metal halide or mercury vapour lights, which are normally suspended above an open-top tank. These are able to punch light deeper than fluorescent tubing and are therefore useful for tanks 24″ or more high. It should be remembered that when higher intensity lighting is employed to boost plant growth, it will be necessary to balance this with an adequate amount of nutrients and CO2.

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Pond filters
Decomposition of fish waste and plant debris releases toxins into ponds and depletes oxygen levels in the water. Simple ponds with few or no fish should not require filters. However, they are essential for stocked ponds where imbalances in the pond’s ecosystem are more likely to occur.
Mechanical filters
Mechanical filters simply remove solids from the pond by straining water through gravel, brushes or foam filters. They can be fitted directly onto a submerged pump and are suitable for small ponds with only a moderate fish population. Regular cleaning is normally required to keep them working properly (about once a week in the height of summer) though self-cleaning models are also available. The filter is effective immediately it is switched on, unlike the biological types described below.
Combined filters
Combined filters that use mechanical, biological and even ultraviolet (UV) means are more suitable for larger ponds with large populations of fish. Most of these combined filters are pump-fed and have a gravity outlet, and so are positioned higher than the water return point. More complex pressure-fed models can be part-buried. Combined filters can be placed after specially designed water pumps which can handle solids.
Biological filters
Biological filtration relies on naturally occurring bacteria that colonise a specially designed filter medium with a large surface area. The bacteria convert ammonia, which is toxic to fish, and other nitrogen-based compounds into nitrates. These are then utilised by pond plants, thus removing nitrogen from the water. Biological systems are essential for ponds with substantial fish populations (especially koi, which produce 40% more waste than goldfish). Unless bacterial supplements are used, the bacterial population takes six weeks to build up. If the filter is switched off for more than 24 hours the bacteria die and a further six weeks is required to rebuild the population. Biological filters only require cleaning at the end of the season. If cleaning is essential during summer, use pond water, as the chlorine in tap water kills bacteria.
Ultraviolet lamps
Ultraviolet clarifiers are placed at the front of the biological filter system. They act by killing green algae and make it flocculate (clump together), easing mechanical filtration. However, they do not remove nutrients from the water. Pond water is exposed to radiation from a UV lamp held inside a quartz tube. There are lamps of different wattage for various pond sizes; most require replacement every six months or so.
Pond size
Having determined the correct filter type for a pond, calculate the size needed. Mechanical filter sizes are easy to relate to water volume. Multiply the pond’s average length X average width X average depth (in metres or feet to get cubic metres or feet). Multiply this figure by 1,000 to get the volume in litres. When calculating pond dimensions in feet, convert the cubic feet measurement to gallons by multiplying by 6.23.
More notes
Additional factors affect the system. A major cause of failure is when fish populations and feeding regimes are not taken into account. Water surface area, pond depth and exposure to sunlight also affect the size of filter required. Speak to specialist suppliers and, if in doubt, go for a larger rather than smaller size, aiming to circulate all the pond water through the filter every two to three hours.
Always consult a qualified electrician before installing a filter system.

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Gases such as methane and hydrogen sulphide that result from the decomposition of decaying plant material are poisonous to fish if levels build up. This occurs in winter if the pond freezes over, trapping gases under the surface.

Never smash the ice as the shock waves can kill the fish. Instead install a heater before the winter, so it can be switched on when a frost is expected, to melt a hole in the ice. Alternatively stand a pan of hot water on the surface to melt a hole.

Expanding ice can damage a pond by putting excessive amounts of pressure on the walls of the pond. A float made from polystyrene or an inflatable ball, absorbs some of this pressure. After removing the float it is possible to siphon out some of the water to create an air pocket below the ice. 

Running a fountain can prevent the water freezing in an area large enough to allow gases to escape. If a pump is left in over winter it is worth running it on a weekly basis to keep it operating efficiently.

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Containers
In smaller ponds, aquatic plants benefit from being grown in containers as this prevents them becoming too large or invasive. Proprietary containers (aquatic baskets) usually have lattice sides to allow water and gas movement. All but those with a finer mesh need lining with hessian or polypropelene materials to prevent soil washing from the container.
Soil
Compost suitable for planting aquatic plants should be a medium to heavy loam. Garden soil can be used if it is suitable and free from fertiliser and herbicides. Otherwise proprietary aquatic compost should be used which may also contain a slow-release fertiliser.
Feeding
Hungry plants such as waterlilies, benefit from regular dividing and re-potting in fresh soil. They may benefit from a supplementary feed in the spring of a specialist aquatic feed, when not being potted on, to encourage better flowering.
Planting
� � � � � � Mid-spring is the best time to purchase new plants through to early summer. At this time the water is warming up and plants should start to grow.
� � � � � � Choose an appropriate container for the size of the plant.
� � � � � � For stability, ballast in the form of large rocks or stones may be needed in the base of containers for taller plants.
� � � � � � Part fill the container with compost.
� � � � � � Plants should be planted to the same depth as in the original container, and rhizomes planted at the surface.
� � � � � � Firm plants in well.
� � � � � � Add shingle, or heavier pebbles as a finishing layer to prevent bottom feeders such as koi from dislodging the plants.
Deep water aquatics
These can be bought as container-grown or bare-rooted plants. Container-grown plants may need potting into larger containers. Bare-rooted plants should have old roots and large leaves removed before planting. Plants may need to be raised on bricks and lowered in stages as their leaves reach the surface, until the appropriate depth is reached.
Floating plants
Introduce floating aquatics to the pool by placing gently on the waters surface. Clumps may need separating first. One plant per square metre of surface area should be sufficient. Avoid invasive floating plants such as Azolla filiculoides (fairy moss) and Lemna minor (duckweed), especially in larger ponds.
Marginals
If bought in plastic pots or small baskets, replant into aquatic baskets. When planting bare-rooted plants in summer, trim back the tops by half and trim the roots back to within 2.5cm (1in) of the crown.
Submerged aquatics
Oxygenating plants can be purchased as bunches which can be planted into baskets to keep them in control. They will need anchoring firmly in place. Approximately four to five bunches, each containing three to four stems, per square metre of water surface should be sufficient. Too much will have a negative effect on oxygen levels. As these plants respire at night large quantities can lead to a lack of oxygen at night in the summer causing fish to die. Avoid invasive species such as Myriophyllum aquaticum.

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Smaller ponds may need cleaning out every four to five years, larger ponds after 10 years. Cleaning removes decaying debris at the bottom of the pond and provides a chance for repairs, propagation and planting.

The time to do this is in late spring, a good time to split plants. For wildlife ponds pond cleaning can be damaging, but less so in autumn or late winter. Try to plan the operation so that it can be completed in one day if possible, as this is less stressful to fish.

The first task should be to prepare a holding tank in a shady spot for fish and deep water plants. Marginals will survive out of the pond as long as they are kept moist and shaded. Use some pond water in the holding tank unless cloudy. Draining the pond using a pump is easiest (hired if necessary). Start removing fish as the water level falls and they become less active and more visible.

Remove plants as the water level lowers, to the holding areas. Remove decaying plant material and heap it up beside the pool for later removal. This will allow any hidden creatures to return to the pool. Remove larger creatures to the holding tank.

Remove the silt in the base, spreading it on neighbouring borders. Keep back some of the silt to add to the clean pond to re-establish microscopic life. Clean the liner and make any necessary repairs.

Return the saved silt and any pond water. Refill with water and replant in stages. Re-pot or divide plants before returning them to the pond, where this is necessary. Examine fish before returning them to the pond. Finally return marginals before completely refilling.

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Feed your fish “Little and Often” if this is possible, if not feed your fish twice daily, the food you give them should be consumed within a matter on minutes. Give your fish as much variety as possible, combine frozen, dry and live foods, and feed your fish nothing one day a week. Check out the protein levels of dry foods, some may not be suitable for the fish in your aquarium.
If your keeping common tropicals I would recommend a water change twice a month, and giving your aquarium glass a wipe inside with a soft cloth / or pair of old tights, a couple of times a week. When you carry out your water change use a gravel cleaner and siphon out approximately a third of the aquarium water, whilst cleaning the substrate at the same time. If your running an undergravel filter place the siphon tube down the uplift tube, to remove the sludge from under the undergravel filter plates, remove any dead plant leaves and generally give the tank a good stir up. When refilling the tank the new water needs to be dechlorinated and a similar or slightly higher temperature to that in the tank.

Water quality is the most important factor in sucessfully keeping fish, the more water changes you carry out the better the quality on your tank water.
Any uneaten food and fish waste decomposes in your tank to produce ammonia, high levels of ammonia will kill your fish. Your mature filter will convert the ammonia into nitrite, but nitrite is also posionous to your fish and high levels will have the same consequence. Your mature filter will convert nitrite to nitrate, this is harmless to your fish, but if you do not carry out regular water changes eventually nitrate levels will grow and have an adverse effect on your fishes growth rate. This is called the “nitrogen cycle” and needs to be monitored when your setting up a new aquarium, you must allow your filters to mature and your filter colonies to grow before you introduce fish to a new aquarium, I would recommend allowing a newly set up aquarium at least 10 days before introducing any fish, then only introduce a few fish at a time, you can purchase kits or get your local pet shop to carry out a test on your water should you experience any problems. Some tropical fish are more hardy than others, introduce the more hardy species first.
What you place in your tank is your choice. But you should be aware, some rocks can leach unwanted chemicals into your tank and new bogwood will have a staining effect on your tank water. Place rocks in your tank in such a way to prevent them falling onto the glass sides, be carefull not to scratch the insides of your tank when placing or removing rocks in the tank, and use them to create caves and hiding places in your tank. Some rocks can effect ph and are used for this reason, ie “tuffa” rock is used in a “malawi” set up to buffer the water to create a ph around 8.5, this is obviously not suitable for use in a tropical aquarium were the desirable ph range will be 6.0 - 7.0.

If your thinking of using plants as part of the tank décor consider using plastic plants, they do not die and decompose, large fish won’t damage them and they look nearly as good as the real thing!

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To help keep the water clear and healthy it is important to develop a balance of plants within the pond.

Mid-spring through to early summer is the best time to purchase new plants. At this time the water is warming up and plants should start to grow away rapidly. In smaller ponds, aquatic plants benefit from being grown in containers as this prevents them becoming too large or invasive. Compost suitable for planting aquatic plants should be a medium to heavy loam.

Plants play an important role in keeping a balanced pool free of algae in summer. Floating plants reduce the amount of sunlight penetrating the water and keep the water cooler, discouraging algae. Introduce free-floating aquatics to the pool by placing gently on the water surface. Aim to keep around 50% of the surface clear of vegetation, if necessary by thinning occasionally during the summer.

Deep-water aquatics with floating leaves such as waterlilies benefit from regular dividing and re-potting because of their vigour. Place containers on raised bricks lowered in stages as their leaves reach the surface, until the appropriate depth is reached. When not being potted on, waterlilies benefit from a supplementary feed in the spring of a specialist aquatic food to encourage better flowering.

Marginal plants are valuable for shading pool margins where algae may otherwise multiply in the warm, shallow water.

Submerged oxygenating plants are vital to pool hygiene and balance. They can be purchased as bunches which can be planted into baskets to keep them in control anchored firmly in place. Approximately four to five bunches, with three to four stems, per square metre of water surface should be sufficient. Plants respire at night in hot humid weather releasing carbon dioxide and depleting oxygen levels which can cause fish to die. Thin out excessive growth and avoid invasive species such as Myriophyllum aquaticum.

Avoid overpopulating the pool with fish. Run a fountain on hot humid nights or play water over the surface of the pool from a hose to improve oxygenation.

Throughout the summer monitor water levels and top up regularly when necessary. Tap water will contain mineral salts and may lead to an algal bloom.

Start removing dead leaves and debris from plants early in the autumn to avoid decomposing vegetation building up in the pond.

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Marine fish have fantastic colour, but you will need to have a large tank to keep a small community of fish, you will require additional equipment such as a protein skimmer. I would not recommend keeping Marine fish untill you at least 2-3 years experience in the hobby

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